Are you planning a trip to Ireland in December? Keep scrolling for my 9-day Ireland itinerary that is perfect for Christmas festivities!
This 9-day Ireland itinerary was written by family travel expert Marcie Cheung and may contain affiliate links, which means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you. All opinions remain my own.
Planning a winter trip to Ireland? Let me walk you through exactly how I spent 9 incredible days exploring Ireland during the most magical time of year.
As a family travel expert from Seattle, I’d been dreaming about European Christmas markets forever. When my friend Keryn from Twist Travel Mag suggested we head to Ireland for holiday festivities, I immediately said yes.
We’d actually traveled to Ireland together earlier in the year, so we knew exactly what we wanted to hit this time: Christmas markets, festive afternoon teas, and all those cozy winter vibes.
Before you start planning your own trip, grab my free 5-day email course on how to plan a trip to Ireland like a pro. It covers everything from budgeting to booking tips, and honestly, it’ll save you hours of research.
Here’s exactly what we did (and what I’d do differently next time).
How I Spent 9 Days in Ireland in December for Christmas Festivities
Day 1: Arriving in Dublin
Flight from Seattle to Dublin
I booked a direct flight from Seattle to Dublin on Aer Lingus. After a terrible experience with Iceland Air last time, I was nervous, but this flight was actually amazing. It was about 9 hours, and I lucked out with an empty seat next to me. Plus we landed a whole hour early!
The Dublin Airport was already decorated for the holidays, which immediately put me in the festive mood.
I landed in Dublin around 12:30 p.m. (a whole hour early!) and waited for Keryn to land about 90 minutes later.
Checked Into the Zanzibar Locke
We stayed at the Zanzibar Locke again because it’s honestly one of my favorite places to stay in Dublin. The location is unbeatable (right across the bridge from Temple Bar), the rooms are huge, and there’s a great cafe in the lobby.
Our room had everything: microwave, washing machine, sink, living area, plus two twin beds. For longer stays, having laundry is a total game-changer. Check the latest rates here.
Our room was awesome. It had a microwave, washing machine, sink, living area, plus two twin beds.
Dinner and Christmas Shopping
We walked across the bridge to The Shack Restaurant (right across from Temple Bar), and the beef stew was exactly what I needed after that long flight. The interior was decked out in holiday decorations and felt so cozy.
Then we wandered around looking at Christmas lights. Walking down Grafton Street felt like stepping into a movie.
The window displays at Brown Thomas were insane (they did a whole 12 Days of Christmas theme), and the light projections on buildings like the General Post Office and Trinity College were stunning. These are all part of Dublin Winter Lights, and it’s completely free to enjoy.
By 8 p.m. we were totally wiped and headed back to the hotel.
Day 2: Dublin Photo Day
Flytographer Photoshoot
On our last trip to Ireland, we did a Dublin photo shoot with Tetiana through Flytographer, and she was SO good that we immediately booked her again for this trip.
Our shoot started at 9:30 a.m. near Trinity College. This time we wanted to highlight all the Christmas decorations, so we brought outfits straight out of Hallmark Christmas movies (lots of sweaters, festive hats, and cozy jackets).
Whenever we travel, we almost always book a family photo shoot with Flytographer. They’re super easy and affordable, AND they guarantee I’ll actually be in some photos instead of behind the camera. You can get $20 off if you book through this link.
Book a Family Photo Shoot
Whenever we travel, we almost always book a family photo shoot with Flytographer. They are super easy and affordable AND guarantee that I’ll be in some photos. You can get $20 off if you book through this link.
National Leprechaun Museum
This place was high on my list after missing it last time. And okay, the name is misleading. I expected figurines and folklore exhibits, but it’s actually an immersive Irish storytelling experience with a guide who takes you through themed rooms.
It completely blew me away! Each room has a different Irish tale, and it’s hands-down one of the best things to do in Dublin for families or adults.
Festive Tea at Dylan Hotel
After the museum, we had a 45-minute walk to the Dylan Hotel for our afternoon tea reservation. We debated doing tea at the Shelbourne Hotel, but it was twice as expensive.
The tea itself wasn’t as festive as the photos I’d seen online, but the food was delicious. Those boozy desserts? Still thinking about them.
Shopping and Dublin Castle Market
On our way to Dublin Castle, we stopped in a few shops. I scored a gorgeous wool blanket that was 40% off, and Keryn found a beautiful wool scarf.
The Dublin Castle Christmas Market was honestly underwhelming. Lots of generic vendors and not much holiday atmosphere. But the State Rooms (free to tour!) and the chapel’s intricate Christmas display were absolutely worth the visit.
Dinner at Bar Italia Ristorante
This dinner saved the day. We started with caprese salad, and then I got this truffle pasta that was SO decadent I could only finish half. Their prosecco cocktails were also fantastic.
Day 3: Heading to Waterford
Coffee, Packing, and Car Rental
We grabbed smoothies at POG and coffee at Hello Charlie (inside our hotel) before taking the Dublin Express back to the airport to pick up our rental car.
Pro tip: if you’re planning to explore beyond Dublin, definitely rent a car. Public transport between smaller towns is limited.
Lunch in Enniskerry
Our first stop was Enniskerry (yes, where they filmed Disenchanted!). It’s adorable, and we had lunch at Kingfisher’s Kitchen.
We split a pear salad and a bagel with cream cheese and salmon. Both were seriously tasty.
Quick Stop in Wicklow Town
We wanted to explore Wicklow Town, but it was pouring rain and most shops were closed. I did buy a cheap umbrella because I totally forgot to pack one. Learn from my mistake and add one of these to your travel packing cubes!
Avoca
One of my favorite spots in County Wicklow is the Avoca shop and mill. I found the cutest sweater that was actually woven right there on site.
We also sat down for tea and mincemeat pies, which was the perfect rest stop before continuing.
Treetop Night Lights at Beyond the Trees Avondale
This was our main reason for coming to County Wicklow. Beyond the Trees Avondale has a treewalk that leads to an incredible viewing tower (similar concept to the Malahat Skywalk if you’ve done that).
Dress warmly for this! I wore my waterproof parka with a hood, and I was so glad. It started hailing and was super windy, especially climbing the tower.
When we arrived early, they were still setting up food stalls, craft vendors, and a carousel. During peak season, this would be even more festive. I think my kids would absolutely love this outdoor adventure.
Checked Into the Fitzwilton Hotel in Waterford
We had about a 90-minute drive to Waterford. We chose the Fitzwilton Hotel because of its perfect location near our favorite restaurant and all the Winterval festivities.
The room was pretty standard (two beds), but the location is truly unbeatable for walking around town. Check rates here.
Dinner at Grattan Bar and Bistro
We ate here on our last Waterford trip, and the beef stew was the best I’d tasted anywhere in Ireland. We had to see if it was really as good as we remembered.
Spoiler: IT WAS. Plus the people who run it are so friendly and welcoming. It became our go-to spot.
Day 4: Exploring Waterford’s Winterval
Shopping, Coffee & Gingerbread Making
After the hotel’s included breakfast (always a bonus!), we ventured out in the wind and rain to scope out the Christmas markets and shops.
A few of our favorites from last time were under renovation, but we found plenty of other cute boutiques.
We grabbed coffee at TRADE Coffee (Waterford’s best coffee spot), checked out a craft fair with locally made artisan products, and even did a gingerbread making workshop. The whole town was buzzing with Winterval events and activities.
Before our afternoon tea, we walked to Aldi and loaded up on discounted candy, stocking stuffers, and even a cute Christmas sweater. Love how affordable Irish grocery stores are!
Festive Tea at the Fitzwilton Hotel
Since we were already staying here, booking their 2 p.m. tea made sense. I have to be honest: this was probably the most disappointing afternoon tea we’ve had anywhere.
The sandwiches weren’t great and the pastries seemed reheated from somewhere else.
They gave us enough food for four people, but it wasn’t tasty enough to save for later. At least it wasn’t expensive.
Thai Massage
This might’ve been the smartest decision we made all day. We’d walked past Original Traditional Thai Massage on O’Connell Street that morning, and both thought it sounded perfect for our tired bodies.
This was one of the BEST massages I’ve ever had (including Thai massages in actual Thailand). My therapist walked on my back (so many satisfying pops!), did deep tissue work on my limbs, and even gave me a head massage. Worth every euro.
Christmas Markets
We browsed two different markets. These were way better than the Dublin Castle one, with more activities, food stalls, and variety. But a lot of vendors were already closing down when we arrived around 5 p.m.
There was supposed to be a light show and bicycle parade that night, but a massive windstorm canceled everything by 6 p.m. We were bummed to miss those festive events.
Second Dinner at Grattan Bar
We went back to our favorite pub for an early dinner. I just got a cup of veggie soup since I wasn’t super hungry after that giant afternoon tea. By 8 p.m., I was completely wiped and fell asleep.
Day 5: Copper Coast to Cobh to Killarney
Copper Coast
We had a lazy morning before checking out and heading toward the Copper Coast. We stopped at the old copper mill ruins, then walked across the street to check out the gorgeous coastline.
The wind was ACTING UP. I fell down twice trying to walk through the soggy grass. But those views? Totally worth the tumbles. Bring your good hiking boots for this kind of terrain.
Lunch and Shopping in Cobh
This might be one of the cutest towns in all of Ireland! It sits right on the water with colorful houses and buildings lining the streets.
We had lunch at SeaSalt, and I had one of the best sandwiches of my entire life. It’s called the Moistmaker (their Christmas toastie), and it had Irish ham, pork and sage stuffing, cranberry and orange chutney, Brussels sprout and apple slaw, and sourdough dipped in gravy.
This award-winning cafe has tons of incredible things on the menu year-round. Don’t skip it.
We also shopped in their cute boutiques (I bought a fun mug and some artwork), then drove up to a viewing area that showcases the church and the colorful row houses called the Deck of Cards.
It’s technically in someone’s garden, but they welcome tourists and encourage donations toward their son’s dream Ferrari.
The cathedral is massive and probably saw people praying before boarding the Titanic, which is a sobering thought.
Checked Into the Killarney Plaza Hotel
We arrived right when the Christmas parade was starting, so Keryn had to drive around for 30 minutes looking for parking. Not ideal, but the Killarney Plaza Hotel itself was GORGEOUS!
Fully decorated for the holidays with multiple Christmas trees, garlands everywhere, and massive toy soldiers outside the entrance.
Our room had a great view of the decorated street and a full bathtub (luxury after all that walking!). Check availability here.
Christmas Parade and Shopping
After dropping our luggage, we headed out to catch the parade. Killarney had WAY more Christmas spirit than Dublin or Waterford. Tons of lights, fully decorated stores, and a festive energy everywhere.
We caught the float part of the parade and got to wave to Santa himself!
Drinks and Dinner
We had drinks at the hotel bar before walking to Hilliard’s for dinner. I got fish and chips that were cooked perfectly. Would definitely return.
Day 6: Exploring Killarney Area
Brunch and Shopping in Kenmare
We slept in a bit before driving to Kenmare, another absolutely adorable Irish village. The shops and restaurants are colorful and charming.
We had brunch at Maison Gourmet where I had the most amazing gingerbread latte and a croissant sandwich with smoked salmon and scrambled eggs.
Then we browsed shops and craft markets, and I found gifts plus another wool sweater for myself.
Ladies Lookout
Quick photo stop with amazing views. There are several parking lots, and we had no problem finding a spot (though I imagine summer gets packed).
Torc Waterfall
The only thing I love more than waterfalls is when they’re a short walk from the parking lot. This one was super easy to reach with several viewpoints.
The walk itself goes through a mossy forest that’s just beautiful to wander through.
If you’re planning Killarney day trips, definitely add this one.
Muckross House
This gorgeous estate is worth visiting even if you don’t tour inside (tickets required for the house). The grounds are stunning to walk around. This is also where you can do jaunting cars (horse-drawn carriages).
Muckross Abbey
This was cooler than I expected! It’s basically the shell of an abbey you can walk through, with a tree growing right in the middle. Some parts are a bit spooky, and I know my kids would be hesitant to explore certain areas.
Killarney Christmas Market
The market is tiny (maybe 10 stalls), but cute. There’s artwork and gift ideas if you’re still shopping.
Dinner at Celtic Whiskey Bar
The food and drinks here were fabulous! They have a long list of Old Fashioned cocktails, but I had a delicious lychee and vodka cocktail instead. My baked fish over roasted potatoes with citrus butter was perfection.
We ended up buying bottles of Writer’s Tears whiskey to bring home as gifts.
Day 7: Road Trip to Galway
Stop in Adare
We got an early start because we had ground to cover. First stop: Adare, a super cute and colorful town with thatched roof buildings. We checked out a few shops before continuing on.
Cliffs of Moher
This had been on my Ireland bucket list forever! We got there on a really sunny day, but it was FREEZING cold. Thankfully there’s a cafe on site if you need a hot drink to warm up.
The views were absolutely stunning. The sun was so bright we could only really get photos from one angle without lighting issues, but it was still incredible.
Lunch in Doolin
Keryn knew about Gus O’Connor’s Pub that makes amazing beef stew and Eton Mess. It’s a really cool pub in a super cute town. During busier seasons, there’s live music and it gets packed.
But I actually loved the quiet atmosphere where we could just relax and enjoy our food.
Checked Into the Park House Hotel in Galway
We drove to Galway and checked into the Park House Hotel. The lobby was decorated for Christmas, and our rooms were lovely. Best part? It’s in the perfect spot for shopping and dining. Check rates here.
Galway Christmas Market
We dropped our bags and headed straight for the Galway Christmas Market. And guys, THIS was what I’d envisioned when I thought of Christmas markets in Ireland!
Tons of stalls, decorations, rides, and a genuinely festive vibe. We did a quick loop to get the lay of the land before heading into downtown.
Shopping in Downtown Galway
The main area of town was covered in decorations and lights. It was absolutely gorgeous! I insisted on going to Marks & Spencer to pick up foodie gifts to bring home. We also shopped for more wool items and Christmas decor.
Dinner at McSwiggans
After dropping our shopping bags at the hotel, we headed to McSwiggans Steak + Seafood Restaurant. Their whiskey drinks were incredible, and the steamed mussels made my soul happy!
We arrived about 2 hours before our reservation and the restaurant was empty (usually not a great sign). But by the time we finished our early dinner, it was packed. This was one of the best meals we had in Ireland.
Day 8: Final Galway Day
Shopping and Galway Museum
We both slept in and had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel (which was great) before doing our final shopping round. We both had long gift lists!
Galway Museum
We also popped into the Galway Museum to check out the exhibits. It’s free and I was really impressed with how many hands-on activities they had for families.
We also popped into the Galway Museum, which is free. I was really impressed with how many hands-on activities they had for families. There was also a special exhibit about the human body that was pretty cool.
Afternoon Tea at Hardiman
Since our other afternoon teas were kind of disappointing, I had super low expectations and almost canceled. I’m SO glad I didn’t!
This ended up being my favorite afternoon tea of all the ones we’ve done in Ireland (including from our spring trip). Their festive tea was created with local Galway influencer Sarah Battle, and she absolutely nailed it.
Spirit One Spa at Galmont Hotel
The Spirit One Spa has everything: steam rooms, sauna, cold rooms, relaxation areas, pool access, and hot tubs. We each got a back, shoulder, and neck massage plus a facial.
Both treatments were fantastic, and it was exactly what our skin needed after trekking around in cold, dry winter air. After the spa, we headed back to pack.
Hyde Bar Galway
We ended our trip with drinks, dinner, and dessert at Hyde Bar Galway, just a few doors down from our hotel. Such a perfect final dinner in Ireland.
Day 9: Journey Home
Drive from Galway to Dublin
We woke up early, finished packing, grabbed coffee, and hit the road. It’s just over 2 hours from Galway to Dublin, with a couple restroom stops.
Flight from Dublin to Seattle
After returning our rental car, we took the shuttle to the airport. The coolest thing about flying out of Dublin is doing US customs and immigration right there before your flight. This saves SO much time when you land in Seattle!
I got lucky with an empty seat next to me again on the flight home. Bring a good travel neck pillow for long flights like this.
Planning Your Own Ireland Winter Adventure
Want to recreate this trip? Here’s what you need to know:
Best Time to Visit: Late November through early January for Christmas markets and winter festivities. The crowds are smaller than summer, and hotel prices drop (except right around Christmas week itself).
What to Pack: Check out my complete Ireland winter packing list for everything you’ll need.
Where to Stay: I’ve linked all the hotels we used above. Book early, especially if you’re traveling during peak holiday season.
Getting Around: Rent a car if you want to explore beyond Dublin. The freedom to stop at cute towns like Adare and Kenmare made our trip so much better.
Tours Worth Booking: Consider Cliffs of Moher tours, Dublin food tours, or Ring of Kerry day trips if you don’t want to drive yourself.
More Ireland Resources
As a family travel blogger who’s been to Ireland multiple times, I’ve got tons of resources:
- Free Ireland planning email course (this is seriously helpful!)
- 13 important Ireland travel tips for first-timers
- 19 fun things to do in Dublin with kids
- How to plan a trip to Ireland step-by-step
Final Thoughts
Ireland in winter is absolutely magical. Yes, the Christmas markets weren’t quite as elaborate as I’d imagined, and a couple afternoon teas were disappointing.
But the holiday decorations, the cozy pubs, the festive atmosphere, and those stunning landscapes more than made up for it.
Plus, winter crowds are so much smaller than summer. We never felt rushed or overwhelmed, and we got to experience Ireland at a more relaxed pace.
If you’re on the fence about winter travel to Ireland, do it. The magic is real.
Looking for more Ireland travel resources? Check out 19 Fun Things To Do in Dublin With Kids, 13 Important Ireland Travel Tips for First-Timers, and How To Plan a Trip to Ireland: Step-by-Step Guide!
